Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 12:42:18 -0400
From: "Jamie Campbell" <jamie_campbell@hotmail.com>
To: knit@bolis.com
Subject: KNIT:  Basic Formula for Men's Socks (long)

The socks are knitted in fingering weight at a fairly fine gauge, and
the pattern gives just enough detail (I hope) so that those who have
completed the famous "Joan's Socks" can probably follow along with no
problem.

For those of you who are advanced sock makers and would just like a
cut-and-dried formula, see the short-and-sweet version at the end.

JAMIE C.'s BASIC FORMULA FOR MEN'S SOCKS A.K.A. DAD's NAVY BLUE SOCKS

MATERIALS

2-3 skeins fingering or sock weight yarn (Nylamb, Socka, Fortissima,
etc.)

1 set DPNS, size US one (or size to get gauge)

Gauge:  8.5-9 stitch per inch
        11-12 rows per inch

(Yes, the gauge can vary slightly according to your personal taste in
sock fabric and desired width)

LEG

Cast on 72 stitches onto 3 DPNS (24-24-24)
Join, and work in round.
Rib in K2, P2 (or desired ribbing pattern) for 2.5 " (or to desired
length for cuff)
At desired length of ribbing, switch to stockinette for 2.5" (or to
desired length before calf shaping)

CALF SHAPING

Shaping round:  K1, SSK (or Slip one, Knit one, Pass slipped stitch
over) knit to last three stitches, then K2 tog, K1

Repeat this shaping round every SEVENTH round FOUR times, for a total of
64 stitches.  

(You should have 20 stitches on needle number one, 24 stitches on needle
number two, and 20 stitches on needle number three.)

Now, knit to desired length of leg (my sock was 9 inches from the top of
the ribbed cuff to the top of the heel flap).

HEEL FLAP

Arrange to have 32 stitches on the heel flap (use whatever method works
for you and gets the 32 stitches onto one needle).

Knit 32 rows in stockinette or heel stitch, end ready to begin a Right
Side row.

HEEL TURNING (ROUND HEEL TAKEN FROM NANCY BUSH'S "FOLK SOCKS")

Row 1: Knit to middle of row (16 stitches), K2, K2 tbl (through back
loops), k1 TURN  

Row 2: Slip one, P5, P2tog, P1 TURN

Next row:  Slip one, k to within 1 st away from gap, k2 tbl, k1, TURN

Next row:  Slip one,  p to within 1 st away from gap, p2 tog, p1, TURN

Repeat these two rows until all sts have been used up from both sides,
knit to middle of the right side row.

(NOTE: k2 tbl can be substituted with k1, slip one, PSSO)

HEEL GUSSET

With same needle, knit across first half of heel stitches, pick up 16
stitches along side of heel flap (pick up st tbl and twist to prevent
"holey" gussets).  (I pick up stitches tbl on one round, then k1b on
next round, THEN start gusset decreases, but it's up to you.) 

With empty needle, knit across 32 instep stitches

Pick up 16 stitches along next side of heel flap; with same needle, knit
second half of heel stitches 

Next round:  needle one: knit to last three stitches, K2 tog, k1
             needle two: knit across instep stitches
           needle three: k1, ssk, knit to end of needle

Next round:  knit plain across all three needles

Repeat these two rounds until you have the desired number of stitches
for the foot of your sock.  I stopped decreasing at a total of 68
stitches.

FOOT AND TOE SHAPING

Knit plain until 2- 2.5 inches away from end of foot.

Shape toe using this formula:

Needle one:  knit to last three stitches, k2 tog, k1
Needle two:  k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2, k1
Needle three: k1, ssk, knit to end of needle

In order to make a nice, rounded toe, I place these decreases between
3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, and then 0 plain rounds until I have 8 stitches left.

If fussy, weave the eight stitches together.  If not so fussy (like me),
cut the thread leaving a tail long enough to thread through darning
needle.  Draw end through remainign stitches and pull snug.

Weave in ends.  Cast on for next sock right away!

SHORT AND SWEET BASIC FORMULA FOR MEN'S SOCKS

Fill in <<your>> numbers at "X".  The numbers I used are in () for a
guide.  Materials and gauge same as above pattern.

Cast on X (72) stit
Rib in K2 P2 for X (2.5) inches 
Switch to stocking stich for X (2.5) inches

Decrease for calf:  k1, ssk, knit to last three st, k2tog, k1
repeat this round every X (7th) round for a total of X (4) decrease
rounds, ending with X (64 stit)

Knit until entire sock is X (9) inches from top of cuff to top of heel
flap.

Work heel flap on X (32) stitches
Turn heel, pick up gusset stitches, work gusset decreases to X (68) stit
for width of foot

Work foot in stocking stitch until X (10) inches minus 2-2.5 inches for
toe shaping

Work wedge toe shaping rounds between 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, and then 0 plain
rounds until 8 stit left.  Kitchener stitch those 8 stitches, or simply
draw stitches together with yarn and darning needle and pull firmly. 
Weave in ends and CO for another sock!


Questions, corrections and comments welcome.  Someday I hope to be able
to say "I've been knitting socks this way for years."  But the
refinements are yours to make.  Have fun!

Jamie
jamie_campbell@hotmail.com

Copyright (c) 1997 by Jamie Campbell.
---
This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium
http://www.woolworks.org/