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Lesson 5

Argyle Sock
On-line Socknitting Classes with Edie Eckman

Lesson Two - Heel and Gusset

Lesson Two

If you are an experienced sock knitter, you may not even need to read this lesson. We are going to work the heel flap, turn the heel, and work the gusset.

Heel Flap

You now have stitches on three stitch holders as shown.


Fold holders #1 and #2 toward each other to form a circle with right sides facing out. The beginning and ending edges of your flat knitting now adjoin one another and the right side of the sock is on the outside.

Slide the stitches from the holders onto your needle. These 24 sts will be your heel flap, and you will be starting at point "a" as shown on the sketch above.

Work heel flap of your choice, either:

  1. (Right Side) Sl 1 as to knit, knit across.
  2. Sl 1 as to purl, purl across.


  1. (Right Side) Sl 1 as to knit, *sl 1 as to purl with yarn in back, k1; rep from * across
  2. Sl 1 as to purl, purl across.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until heel flap is desired length (probably between 2½ and 2¾" for a woman’s foot). End by working a RS row.

Turn heel

Before we start, make a note of this: You will be using an SSK decrease for the upcoming lessons. The most common SSK decrease is "sl next 2 sts as to knit, insert left-hand needle through both sts from right to left and knit them together", but you should try this "new" SSK decrease: "sl next st as to knit and following st as to purl, insert left-hand needle into both sts from right to left and knit them together"

This is a standard heel turning using short rows. If you are familiar working heels, just go ahead and do your thing and skip to the **.

Otherwise, here are row-by-row instructions. You will be leaving some stitches unworked at the end of every row until Row 9.

Row 1 (WS): Purl 14, p2 tog, p1, turn.

Row 2: Sl 1 as to k, k5, SSK, k1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1 as to p, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1 as to k, k7, SSK, k1, turn,

Row 5: Sl 1 as to p, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 6: Sl 1 as to k. k9, SSK, k1, turn.

Row 7: Sl 1 as to p, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 8: Sl 1 as to k, k11, SSK, k1, turn,

Row 9: Sl 1 as to p, p12, p2tog, turn.

Row 10: Sl 1 as to k, k12, SSK [14 sts remain].

You have turned the heel! See how it goes around the bend and heads off toward the toe? That wasn’t so hard, was it?

**Leave these 14 sts on the needle. Break off MC, leaving a tail for later seaming.


With right side of heel flap facing you, pick up and knit 13 sts along the right edge of the heel flap.

This may seem confusing: you are holding the sock upside down, so as you look at it the right edge will be the left side as it is worn on the body. Got it?

If you have made your heel flap longer than 2¾" you will need to pick up more stitches along the edges, and will need to work more decreases in the gusset.

Knit 14 heel sts, then and pick up and knit 13 sts along left edge of heel flap (right side of heel as it is worn). [40 sts]

You will be working your gusset back and forth on these 40 sts.

Row 1 (Wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: K1, SSK, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 sts remain.

Work even in stockinette st until gusset is same length as instep. End by working a WS row.

End of Lesson Two

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